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yup, I'm betting on a Ph spike..

apply generous amount of gel to frag out of water (pat dry frag base first). quickly place where you want the frag underwater and hold it for 30 seconds... always works for me

If you have stuff in your reef get that skimmer going asap, that would be job one, also, I have gotten that high in my reef a few times with no negative consequences...

What livestock do you have in the tank?

+1 Mr. X. I have had a very nice specimen for about a year now, always opened up nicely. Recently, I noticed the polyps weren't extending as much in particular areas, these areas have seemed to spread over the last few weeks and I'm pretty sure its on its way out... Its unfortunate but like...

I think milwauke intruments makes alot of those digital meters, definitely pricey. I was looking at a nitrate photometer for like $200+. I'm still undecided, definitely accurate, yet I don't know if its worth the $$ in the long run...

A 400 watt halide is a 400 watt halide either way. The only thing that differs is the fixture. Find out what type of bulb it takes and find one specifically made for aquariums. Just make sure its not like 400 watts over a 10-20 gallon or less tank though lol.

get any ro/di unit you want and buy an automatic shutoff kit.. that way you won't waste water at all once your container fills.

I'd let it run for at least 1 more week just to be sure. You don't want to kill anything off because of a late cycle....

+1 nice green polyped toadstool!

should be ok for the most part, I'd rearrange the rocks right before I add the sailfin and hippo that way the yellow tang won't be as territorial because you'll essentially destroy his "turf" opening it up to newcomers.... Those yellows are one of the more aggressive tangs, so be careful.

enters and exits through the anus? Must be an INTERESTING relationship.... I'd have to get some serious benefits for something like that to happen, jk!!! LOL sorry for the dirty joke, I couldn't resist ^

if its free then try it out, buy a phosphate test kit and test for them, easiest answer IMO....

I am humbly corrected LOL!! Definitely a maintencance issue then. Barter with him, i.e. no dinner if a water change isn't done hehe. I just wanted to make sure I was tracking your situation right, that way I could give the best advice possble and give the best explanation for your predicament...

I'd leave the quarantine at normal parameters, no medication, no hypo, they could just further stress him... If you want, you can put in some instant ocean "lifeguard" tablets. I've used them with very good results on a clown that had a near death experience for seemingly no reason. Its...

In the long run an RO/DI unit is better, less maintenance, better water quality.... From what I've heard the tap conditioner filters need replacing very often depending on how clean the tap water is...

Mine was the name of my car club in high school "Errattiq Performance"

You'll still go through the nitrogen cycle..... cycled LS and LR mean nothing in this case without established water..... If you did then disregard this comment LOL.... Not using established tank water in a new tank will cause die off from both LR and LS because the water doesn't contain the...

+1 Holy cow, even if they are real tiny that would still be overstocked... What is your secret to keeping your nitrates as low as they are with all those fish in a 55!?!?!? LOL We'd be glad to know! $20 says he is overly stressed with his new tankmates/surroundings... Emphasis on the sailfin...

Wait a minute, isn't rust merely ferric oxide??? Then I wouldn't belive to be harmful at ALL because aren't certain filter medias primarily composed of ferric oxide anyway? That's what I thought...