Search results

well that link didn't work, but this one should :) <a href="http://community.webshots.com/photo/24190560/30669974kXpBXcMqCJ" target="_blank">http://community.webshots.com/photo/24190560/30669974kXpBXcMqCJ</a>

i have a chevy tahoe and a chevy pickup and i get to drive one of these from time to time :) ... hope that link works :)

well, good quartz sand doesn't contain a lot of silicates, but some minerals like feldspar are water soluble and can contribute to silicate (and diatom) problems. you can also buy dry aragonite and use it as a sand bed, then seed it with a fraction of the live sand you would have used in your...

i go a couple of times a week to my regular LFS and i sporatically visit others around the area....

i have live rock, live sand, two skimmers, and a couple of filter pads to remove suspended particles. hope this helps :)

they also don't apparently like changes in water temperature. i'm not suggesting this, but all of mine went away after my heater failed and the temperature of my tank went from 80 to 72F. also, the nudibranch C. varians (i think that is the right species) eats them and so do certain types of...

vinegar or a dilute bleach solution will denature the stinging protein, but to be effective it must be applied soon after the sting. wash the area in water after soaking in the above solutions and you should be okay. hope this helps ;)

sounds like a rose-colored bubble tip anemone, but those are kind of rare to come by. BTAs have shorter tentacles and are usually brownish-green, but some color morphs can be a reddish-brown color referred to as rose. hope this helps...

i don't think powercompacts would be adequate for the anemones. anemones need intense light and since you didn't give wattages, i would suspect that the proposed lighting scheme just won't do. i've seen pictures of anemones under PC/VHO compared to metal halide, and the differences are...

well, i just tore off a portion from the main colony and attached it to a rock with a rubber band. they are amazingly resilient and even though you will tear their base, within a week or so they will be attached to their new home. i even used my fingers to rip the piece off the mother colony...

i have no personal experience, but i've heard nothing but good things about both. hellolights.com has really good prices on their 10000K ushio bulbs :)

well, if they are just missing, then they are moving to a more suitable location in your tank. if, on the other hand, they are turning a bleached white, then they are definitely dying. it pays to do a little research and see what area of the world the water conditions in your tank most closely...

they are very picky about current. due the the nature of the structure of the coral, strong currents can tear the bubbles and open the coral up to infection. keep them in a moderate to brightly lit area with relatively low current and they should do fine. feeding them can also help them grow...

well, temperature is less important than temperature consistency. people have varied opinions on what is the "best" temperature, and to be honest everything from 72-84F will probably work without a hitch. the more difficult thing in a small tank is to make sure the temperature doesn't...

well, many, if not all, commercially prepared flake foods contain elevated levels of phosphates when compared to natural foods (like squid, shrimp, brine, etc). there is no "best" food, but it is definitely to your and your tank's advantage to: 1. limit the amount of flake food you feed 2...

well, i have to admit the revised group of moderators has made this site particularly enjoyable :) thanks guys and gals :)

sounds awesome! should be enough light to keep just about anything, including SPS! :) good luck ;)

absolutely! it's not called live rock for nothing! :) i have amphipods and mysiid shrimp that developed from the rocks, and i even have some brown button polyps that came on the rock :) i once heard that the only way to really kill liverock is to soak it in bleach. i don't know if that's...

well, i disagree with the previous post. i currently run the 12000K sunburst halides and they are very blue. in fact, some people don't like them because they are "too" blue. i've heard there are reliability issues with the sunburst bulbs, and although i haven't had any, i'm switching to the...

i would agree that an algae bloom is a definite possibility and that the photoperiod should be reduced after the upgrade and then gradually increased. in the future when you upgrade and have corals and other photosynthetic organisms, they can be shocked by an abrupt increase in light intensity...