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Just checked one of my kits - API Master Test Kit - the Nitrate card reads up to 160. My Red Sea card is the one that has high and low range readings.

OK - you'll need to get those test results confirmed - the test for nitrates must go higher than 10 - isn't API the one that has a "high level" and "low level" on the color chart? make sure you are reading the correct side. If my suspicions are correct - then it will probably be time for you to...

some of the bacteria will survive and quite a bit of the coraline will also survive - it is not likely that any critters, algae, or other growths did.

yeah - part of the problem. you have either much higher nitrates than your test indicates or you have phosphates in the water (something is feeding that diatom algae). Cut back the lights schedule temporarily to 2 - 3 hours. Did you use tap water when you filled the tank? Tap water normally...

sorry to say that you will probably have to file a claim (or SWF will) which they have done for me without any problems. That long in transit in those temperature extremes will kill most life on the rock thus it is no longer "ultra premium" but just live rock (coraline will survive) it would...

Originally Posted by lovetofly31 I've got brown stuff growing everywhere, but it doesn't seem to be affecting nitrite level. Cut back on the lighting schedule a bit and see if this helps. Is the brown just a "light dusting" or is it getting thicker?

something wrong with that for sure - I would suspect the nitrite test kit - take a water sample to your LFS and have your readings verified. You have nitrates so that colony should be growing and decreasing the nitrites. 0 ammonia indicates no new nitrites should be forming and nitrates indicate...

give us a list of your other parameters and we'll get you an answer SG, nitrate, ammonia, ph

Yep - you are a manipulative little deviant need to look into some RA meetings (reefkeepers anonymous)

when you do any of these things let the water circulate for 20-30min before you take any new readings to insure complete mix for accurate tests

OK you need to simply remove some water and replace with straight RO water - no salt - until it reaches the correct level. As stated when you "top off" do not add salt - salt does not evaporate - so as your water level decreases (evaporation) the salinity rises. Only when you do "water changes"...

nice carpet BTW

that blue hippo is going to get pretty big he'll need a lot of room to swim or he'll get aggressive or overstreessed - you need to consider the full grown sizes of all your tankmates. Short term you could "house" more but if you plan to keep then you should not.

Yes that is pretty normal behavior for a tang - they are very active swimmers they also are known to chase their own reflections around

That is kind of hit or miss - in that size tank with ample rock they would probably get along but there is always the chance that they wont. Then you may also have issue with the six line getting aggressive as well (if they make him feel crowded out) and those guys can get surprisingly mean.

Originally Posted by renogaw yea, i figured it would stop the "what happened?" posts Yeah that's true too - I was thinking about all the "why did he have to kill it?" thoughts

Originally Posted by PerfectDark Just from what I can see. The change in coloration is behavorial, a mood change in some fish can result in a color change, so can stress. That's exactly right the damsels are known to have dramatic color changes at times when they are under stress (like when...

sorry for that Ren - that was a good looker - am glad you clarified with the 2nd post too

no they wont die - you will still have algae growth on other surfaces for them to graze

a mature tank is one that has been running consistently for several months with stable conditions and good signs of growth like coraline. The crabs are pretty sensitive inverts and spend most of their time picking at the growth on live rock that is often not present in newer systems.