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when you say you are doing water changes do you mean removing hypersaline water and adding fresh RO with no salt added?

probably the way you are mixing your water - you need to premix in advance with movement in the water to insure complete blending of the salt mix otherwise your readings are false due to solids still in suspension and as they break down in the tank your salinity will rise.

are you running a skimmer? what kind of water movement do you have? particularly at the surface. Possiby a CO2 issue? I have to go for tonight - I'm sure sep or one of the other mods will follow up with you - GL

shoot me!! I'm getting tired - time to go I didn't finish my last statement - agree with Sep the system being so new (assuming it is) does not have the histiry of stability nor the algae, detritus etc for a cuc - therefore you would have to feed them - so I would not add them right away - HTH -...

how long since cycle? did you see the ammonia spike etc? I ask because it is odd that your nitrates are at zero - did you do big water changes after cycle? with those readings and certainty of having gone through a cycle you could certainly add your crew now

they are typically not aggressive except when protecting their spot (even then not very) if they are tank bred they are far less likely to display any aggression but also less likely to host.

Coraline algae does not utilize that much calcium - it is likely that you have some other problem in the system. do you test your alk, dkh and Ph ? What are your CA test results saying?

need to know all of your parameters before advising any CUC - especially SG, Amm, Nitrites and Nitrates

Originally Posted by socal57che Um, Have you been hittin' the sauce? I think you're in the wrong thread. Ehhh, she's close enough to the topic - sort of comparitive analysis - besides... there is no Hanna Montana thread -

post your water parameters here and get a phosphate test kit or have the water tested for it to confirm that it is there in higher levels - then perhaps someone can pinpoint your problem.

I see several problems in that list.... the tangs could fight the puffers could fight or stress one another out the puffers will nip the fins and spines of the lion the tank is way overstocked

darn it socal - every time i see your avatar i want to go pick up a wrench and get in my garage !!

yes - you can tell the difference - check this article for starters: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-12/ft/index.php

alright alright - enough with the winks and flowers

Originally Posted by sepulatian You cannot keep a small volitan in a 30 gallon. You will not be able to keep a butterfly in there either. You can have a clown and a dwarf angel. The rest will be rocks, coral and inverts. Definitely agree

Ditto I used pepermints and they are fun to watch too

how big are the fish? you can increase the number of times they are fed so that they stay reasonably satisfied and as a result are less likely to develop aggressive behavior

IMO - the bigger the better - whatever your budget will allow (and space)

if the food is gone in less than 1 minute you could very well try a bit more at each feeding - increasing times per week will not make any more available to the firefish. as long as the food is consumed within several minutes and not left to settle on the bottom then you should be ok

3 primary sources of phosphates are cleaning solutions (glass cleaner for example), tap water, and flake foods (although levels are low combine with overfeeding and you get excess phosphates) Water change to lower nitrates RO/DI to decrease phosphates introduced to system as advised above...