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yeah, the temp thing is the biggest issue, Your other option is just to add a tiny bit of water every few minutes or so, going to be very time consuming.

I don't understand why you cannot do the drip method? That is what I would do over a 24hr period. A a siphon should work no matter how low the tank is to the ground as long as the bucket you are using is lower than the tank.

The rio 1700 is probably fine, how does it run when it is hooked up.

I don't get why people want to spike the ammonia up so high in a tank with great LR, you are effectively killing a lot of the organisms in your rock. If you want to be sure you have enough bacteria to support your fish then feed your tank for a couple weeks as if you had several fish in it...

IMO either go with a very shallow sandbed 1" or below, or go with a 4"+ DSB, I sort of prefer the shallow sandbed, DSB do require some knowledge and maintenance. If you go with the shallow you will need something on the tank for exporting nitrates, like a LOT of LR or a refugium with macro algae.

Wet/dry's generally have a pretty slow flow rate, the water needs to drip (hence the drip plate) over the bioballs (they should be wet not submerged). If you want a lot of flow in your tank then do it with powerheads or a closed loop. What size tank and what size Wet/dry, that makes a big...

With a 10gallon tank I would just take it home with me. Let it cycle during the break at home, pack it all up and take it back to school, it will be ready to go when you set it back up (test levels of course). The only other thing I can think of is getting a 5gallon kent aqua dose. try to...

I should have phrased that better, nitrites are not as toxic to fish as ammonia, and nothing to freak out about. I get most of my knowledge from experience , I have been in this hobby for 10yrs and I own a small aquarium maintenance company, I do know what I am talking about. I hate to see...

I just make the section for your pump big enough to fit the skimmer also. three baffles would be the best but you are really limited on space with a 10gallon aquarium.

there is no problem with it being on the floor, except you will need a bigger pump to get the water up to the tank. more like a Mag 5 or 7. I would only seperate one section for the return pump so it doesn't suck up sand or algae.

As the cycle ends the nitrates will go down on their own some, you will probably be left with something around 40. Water changes, a refugium with macro algae (you remove the algae you remove the nitrates), a DSB and LR will all convert nitrates. My personal fave for nitrate removal is the...

A lot of people build a small stand to put the refugium next to the main tank. You want it a little lower than the display but it doesn't have to be on the ground. You will need a hang on back overflow to get the water from your main tank to the refugium, you cannot use two pumps (recipe for...

I don't see any mention of a trigger at all? Anyway, a snowflake eel would be fine, and one yellow eyed kole tang will be fine in your tank I personally wouldn't put any other tang or any other type of tang in a 55. Blenny should be fine as long as it is big enough, any small fish "could" be...

There shouldn't be any problem with those two fish together. What else do you have in the tank?

Seriously do you ever listen to anything anyone tells you

If you are putting a fuge on the tank with macro algaes for nutrient export then I would just save your money for a decent skimmer, don't get a seaclone. For a cheaper skimmer but still works well, look for the coralife needlewheel skimmers. Go with the 125 skimmer (they seriously underate...

Not sure about a copperband in a 44 seems a little small to me, and be aware that some copperbands do nip at polyps and featherdusters. Espcially since you have a YT in there (most people will tell you the YT will outgrow the 44 rather quickly). As far as a wrasse- sixline, fairy wrasse, some...

you need to email swf and talk to them about it, the board has nothing to do with the store.

halimeda might work, but they may just eat it also. Do you want the plants for looks or nutrient export?

I do not recommend you use that type of live sand, it is a rip off IMO, better off using dry sand and getting some really good sand from a local reefers tank, or refugium. If it were me I would put the LR and dry sand in, cycle the tank (do water changes as necessary to keep levels from getting...