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Originally Posted by Reefstar22 which tang WOULDN'T eat it is a better question. :) that's the truth - now the important question is can your tank handle a tang? they will make pretty short work of it not likely to grow back unless rooted into a gap the tang can not reach

no they do not sting but the spines can puncture wound - more often then not you will break spines off thus injuring the urchin and making it more succeptable to infection or attack.

that can go either way - if the clown hosts the anenome it will almost certainly be ok - if the anenome is on its own it will more than likely become a meal - when the base and body become exposed they seem to be quite tempting to puffers and the like. However it depends on the temperament of...

the purple spiny urchin may be what you have then - non venemous but you need to be careful handling them in tanks as they grip and wedge themselves and you will break the spines trying to move them. they are usually are dark purple but sometimes have some reddish hues to them.

the recomended amount of snail pop is, believe or not, 1 per gallon. I think that is a bit much myself. The turbos will spend most of their time cleaning glass, the cerith are excellent grazers, the nassarius are excellent sifters. I still say AT LEAST 30 turbo, 30 nassarius, and 20 cerith will...

Longspine Black Urchin you should be careful - the spines are venemous and, although not deadly, can be quite painful

How about a picasso trigger and a harlequin tusk - nice contrast and equal temperament - have seen them do well together

That is their maximum size - on average they will only grow to a max of 3-4in

wow -and I thought I was a slow typist !! LOL

wait on the mandarin as stated above you may end up with issues having two maroon clowns unless they become a mated pair - it will be hit or miss in that size tank - they may just claim different territories. you will need a much larger clean up crew - go for at least triple the amount of...

you'll also need to post water parameters and other system info - the more info given the easier the diagnosis

if you could post a pic that would be great - it sounds like there may be a couple of things going on here. post this thread in the diseases forum with a pic and you'll get a positive answer quickly i'm sure.

additionally - if you are not using live sand you could also pre rinse a lot of the ultra fine particles before introducing to the tank. HTH

it is not necessary to buy live sand in an established system. the best way to add it in with the least mess would be to put it into small containers slowly submerge the entire container to the sandbed and then slowly empty contents. this will still create a small "storm" but no where near as...

triggers are not reef safe nor are they safe with crustacean or invertebrates. their teeth are designed to bite thru shells and corals. this includes the blue throat (sargassum trigger). This is also a deep water trigger that does not do well in aquariums - they are hard to keep and often don't...

you can do this but it will be a slow and tedious task. when you transfer the sand you are going to stir up a lot of stuff! you'll need to let that settle until you can see well enough to place your rock etc. After it is all placed and the majority has settled you can re-introduce your fish...

OK - that sounds good - if it did not have the foul odor and simply had that ocean smell then it was pre cured more than likely. Assuming you put it into your tank within a couple of hours then you will have little or no die off and thus no cycle. With and established bacteria colony the little...

what part of MD are you in?

I have gone to the hydor koralia - they have an uneven water movement and magnetic glass mount so you can place them in many more choice locations. So far they have been excellent. For most tank setups you should have two powerheads placed in the rear corners and aimed toward the front center...